ENCLOSURES

DIET

Proper Diet Per Day:

Hay – Should always be 80%-90% of your rabbit’s daily diet; timothy hay, orchard grass, oat hay, alfalfa hay (for young growing rabbits, or underweight rabbits)

10% Veggies and Greens – 1 packed cup of greens per 2lbs body weight

5% pellets – 1tbsp of pellets per 2lbs body weight (high fiber, low calorie – no corn, seeds, wheat fillers)

2% Fruit, Sweet Veggies – 1tsp per 2lbs body weight – 2 to 3 times per week

Fiber has several important functions:

• • Protects against gastro-intestinal stasis.
  • Prevents constipation caused by accumulation of fur in the intestines.
  • Adds moisture and volume to the feces.
  • Prevents enterotoxemia; (severe diarrheal disease, primarily of rabbits 4–8 weeks old when naturally infected; it also can affect rabbits at all life stages)
  • Provides a healthy bacterial balance in the cecum.

The rabbit’s digestive tract is able to process large amounts of high fiber/low-calorie food. Too little fiber in the diet can cause serious problems including dysbiosis of the bacterial flora of the digestive system, or diarrhea. These problems can be avoided by offering the rabbit unlimited amounts of grass hay every day.

The quality of the hay is very important. It’s important that the hay does not contain too much dust. Small particles of dust may cause respiratory problems. Hay can be purchased from most pet supply stores or bought from local farmers or stables. Hay that is moist or has a moldy smell can make your rabbit sick and must be removed immediately.

Hay should be stored in a dark, dry place. Direct sunlight may ruin important vitamins and minerals in the hay.

Stuffing the hay into wicker baskets, empty paper rolls, and other fun containers, might encourage some rabbits to eat more hay.

Another method to increase hay consumption is to put the hay directly on the floor  or in a hay rack in the rabbit’s living area, away from the litter box. This way hay is always available, and the rabbit can graze peacefully from the ground like wild rabbits do.

Greens and veggies are loaded with incredible nutrients such as vitamins, minerals, and antioxidants, not to mention water that provides essential hydration to your little ones. Thinking of a rabbit’s overall diet, the variety of greens and veggies available far outweighs different types of available hays and pellets. Thus, these greens and veggies are a perfect way to diversify the diet and provide mental and nutritional enrichment to keep your bun interested at mealtime. Like guinea pigs and chinchillas, about 80% of a rabbit’s diet should be high-quality grass hay paired with species and age specific pelleted food, plus greens and veggies. Dark leafy greens should make up most of the latter category and fruits should be offered infrequently in exceedingly small amounts.

Every animal is an individual and unique in their nutritional needs, so it is always best to consult with your veterinarian to determine the best diet for your individual pet. General feeding recommendations are around 1 cup of dark, leafy greens per 2 pounds of a rabbit’s body weight daily. You can also provide other vegetables besides leafy greens, such as squash and cucumbers, but these tend to be higher in simple carbohydrates like sugar and starch and should be provided in smaller quantities. A good rule of thumb is one cup of non-leafy green veggies per 2 pounds of body weight per day.

For example, a rabbit that weighs 3 pounds should get roughly 1/8 cup (2 Tbsp) pellets, 1.5 cups leafy greens, and 1.5 tablespoons of chopped veggies (non-leafy greens).  Providing 3 to 5 different types of greens and veggies daily is encouraged, rotating types and varieties each day or week. These greens and veggies can be offered all at once, but it is best divided into multiple daily feedings to provide more enrichment, interaction, and avoid rapid intake in a short period of time. If available, organic produce is preferred to avoid pesticides and produce should be washed before offering.

Greens and veggies are excellent sources of vitamins A, B, C, and K, not to mention soluble fiber and trace minerals such as iron, manganese, copper, and zinc.  As we discussed above, all animals are unique and therefore it is always imperative that you factor your fur baby’s medical history into their dietary decisions. Some veggies and greens have specific nutritional factors that might determine if they are appropriate for your specific pet. For example, parsley, spinach, mustard greens, and Swiss chard should be fed sparingly or avoided for animals with a history of bladder issues as they are higher in calcium and oxalates than other greens and veggies.

• • • Do – Make the effort to think like a bunny. Is one rabbit jealous you are interacting with the new bunny/resident bunny? Is he mad you just gave his favorite toy to the other? Is the rabbit stressed and ready to stop for the day?
    • Do – Interact with the bunnies but give equal attention and provide a positive and relaxed atmosphere.
    • Do – spay or neuter your rabbits prior to bonding

Don’ts

• • • Don’t – Play favorites.
    • Don’t – Expect love at first sight.
    • Don’t – Hold a bonding session in the resident bunny’s territory until after the bunnies spend at least 30 minutes together in neutral space. Be prepared for the potential that the resident bunny may become defensive or aggressive at first.
    • Don’t – Try to bond if you have had a bad day. Your emotions will transfer to the bunnies and can undo weeks of work.
    • Don’t – Leave the rabbits unsupervised, even for a minute, until they’re fully bonded.
    • Don’t – Assume that because yesterday went well, today will too. They are working through relationship issues similar to those humans do during a dating process.
    • Don’t – End on a bad note, if at all possible.

Helpful tips and guidelines:

Rabbits who have never previously been introduced need time to “scope” out each other’s personalities, just like we do when we meet new people. They need to form an acceptance to each other prior to physical interaction.  By allowing your rabbits to prematurely interact, they will most likely fight, resulting in injuries that may require an unnecessary vet visit, or a negative first impression which may hinder or completely cease the bonding process.

When setting your rabbits up for bonding, you will want separate, escape proof enclosures for each rabbit. Be sure you have enough space for this set up. (see housing for more information).  The enclosures should be in the same vicinity while leaving several inches or feet in between them to avoid biting each other through the bars.  It is important to mirror the enclosures by placing litter boxes, hideaways, hay racks and dishes in the same formation opposite to one another. 

Once the rabbits have spent some time side by side, they will start emulating each other’s actions.  You will notice that they will lay down, eat, and visit their litter box simultaneously.  Once this takes place, you can gradually start moving the enclosures closer together until you observe a peaceful interaction through the bars such as attempting to groom each other, as well as an increased desire to be close to one another.  While you are going through these steps, make sure to switch the rabbits in each other’s pens every couple of days.  It is also a good idea to take items such as blankets, favorite toys and give them to the other rabbit.  After your rabbits show a consistent desire to meet, choose a quiet, neutral area in your home to do a physical introduction.  DO NOT put the rabbits in a common play area, or in each other’s pens for the first introduction. Rabbits are territorial and therefore will diligently protect what they’ve deemed as their space.  Female rabbits are generally more territorial of their space than males and therefore, it is a good idea to consider adding the female to the male’s enclosure after a few successful interactions.  Once you have determined a suitable, neutral area, we suggest the following:

• • Ensure your rabbits have been altered several weeks prior to the introduction. Bonds are less likely to be successful with intact rabbits and accidental pregnancies may result.
  • Make sure the space has not been previously occupied or used by your rabbits. If this is not possible, be sure you have thoroughly disinfected and cleaned the area with a rabbit safe solution such as cleaning grade vinegar. https://www.rabbitair.com/pages/cleaning-supplies-and-household-chemicals
  • Spread out greens and favorite treats amongst the space they will be interacting
  • Make sure the area is free of obstacles that may cause injury, sharp objects, places they can get out of your reach and free of unnecessary noise and other pets or children. It is best to use an open space with a hideaway such as a cardboard box for interaction.
  • Keep a towel or blanket handy to separate the buns in the event of a fight. NEVER separate quarrelling rabbits with your bare hands.
  • Limit first interactions to 10-minute intervals twice daily and gradually increase.

What to expect:

Some chasing, hair pulling, and humping are all common when rabbits first meet.  It is necessary for them to determine the hierarchy of the partnership. The more dominant bun will be apparent upon the first introduction and remain top bun for the lifetime of the companionship. Humping in these circumstances does not necessarily reflect an instinct to reproduce, but rather is an action of dominance.  If humping becomes excessive, gently separate the rabbits, and offer treats or petting as a distraction. Never allow face humping. Hair pulling can be somewhat alarming but is also a natural communication between rabbits while they’re putting each other to the test. Stay close to the rabbits and be prepared to separate them if they show too much aggression or excitement. Take all measures to avoid a bite injury.  If you notice excessive hair pulling and chasing, immediately separate and return the rabbits to their enclosures. Be very attentive to your rabbits’ behavior during this process. If you notice both rabbits circling/spinning close to each other, they can potentially end up in a “ball” which is a fight you want to avoid.  Once rabbits are in a ball formation, they are full on biting to cause serious damage.  Throw the blanket or towel down on one or both rabbits and immediately separate them, ceasing the introduction.  You may have to take several steps back in the bonding process if this occurs.  This means moving the enclosures slightly apart and following the first steps as described in helpful tips and guidelines.  This behavior is extreme in most cases and if you have been patient while following the proper steps, your rabbits should not be accelerating to aggression. Your rabbits are considered fully bonded once they can assume relaxed behavior such as eating, grooming, and laying down either together or near each other in a neutral area. When you are confident that your rabbits have totally accepted each other, you can then proceed to allow them access in all designated areas of the household.

NAIL CARE

Once you have your rabbit securely wrapped, you will need to slightly shift the towel throughout the process so you have access to each foot.  Gently pull your rabbit’s feet out one at a time as needed while keeping the core wrap in place.  Once you have completed each foot, resecure within the wrap.  You don’t want to end up with all four feet out by the end of the process.  This will enable your rabbit to escape the wrap.

Holding Your Rabbit

• • Lean your rabbit’s backside firmly against your body while keeping your rabbit’s bottom on the flat surface. You are essentially using your body as a third hand.
  • With one hand, secure your rabbit’s chest and do the trimming with your other hand.
  • In some cases, it’s helpful to have a second person hold the rabbit as described above until you are confident doing this yourself.
  • You may also wish to lean your rabbit against your arm which should be at a 90° angle. NEVER lay your rabbit flat on his back as this will trance your rabbit and can be deadly!

Place your rabbit securely on a flat surface or on the floor. Run the brush along the surface of the hair in the direction that it grows.

During molting season, there are several hair buster products that can be found in pet supply stores or online.  Pin the outer fur back in the opposite direction to expose the undercoat. Run the comb through the undercoat paying special attention to thicker areas.  In the meantime, pluck any loose tufts that present themselves.  

While brushing your rabbit, use the opportunity to check for parasites, injuries, abscesses, discharge from eyes or nose and any other abnormalities.  Also check the ears for dirt, redness, and foreign matter. This could be a symptom of parasites or infection.  If any of these conditions are present, contact your veterinarian immediately.

For mats and long-haired breeds – it may be necessary to find a local rabbit savvy groomer.  It is not recommended to attempt to detangle or cut out mats unless you have extensive grooming experience. This may cause serious injury to your rabbit.  Seek out expert care if mats are present.

Bathing

NEVER bathe your rabbit. Rabbits are self-cleaning animals and bathing will cause extreme stress and hypothermia.  If fur is soiled, you can spot-bathe that specific area, or simply wipe with a damp, warm cloth. You can also give your rabbit a dry bath. To do that, sprinkle a little cornstarch onto the area that needs to be cleaned and massage it into your rabbit’s fur. Then, comb the cornstarch out of the fur and use a cloth to wipe away any excess.

NEVER use baking soda to absorb odors. Inhaling or ingesting baking soda can lead to major health issues and even death.

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