Our two-year-old Harlequin, Pronto, often appears bloated and we’ve been searching for a cause. We give him and his brother unlimited Oxbow Timothy Hay, about a quarter cup of the Oxbow garden organics adult pellets, and veggies (parsley, Romaine, Spinach, some carrot once a week, etc.). I also give both of them an Oxbow Digestive every day which does seem to help. When he gets bloated we will often treat him with 1 ml. of simethicone infant drops and this appears to head it off. I will not give him veggies for a day or two to see if he gets better. Typically his poos are fine (large, round, golden brown, soft) and he has a great appetite. But, about every four months he will show the beginning signs of GI stasis (not eating, drinking, sitting in his litter box) and we do a more intensive intervention–1 ml of drops for each hour for their first three hours, belly massages, critical care, and water syringe fed and sometimes placing him on a towel on a heating pad on medium. Last week we were at our wit’s end, did everything for four hours in the middle of the night and it was the heating pad that appeared to finally help. We’ve had to take him to the vet for emergency appointments. twice in the past two years–one time an hour and a half away at 1 am to a 24-hour vet school hospital because no interventions on our part were working. But with hydration and pain meds he perked right back up. What can we change diet-wise to prevent these issues? Pronto is a healthy, happy, active little guy normally, but his belly blows up like a sausage while his brother Marco is muscular and svelte and eating the same diet.

I would recommend a full work up to see if there is an underlying cause. Full body x-rays, bloodwork and fecal test. He could have an intestinal parasite called Coccidia. He could just be ingesting a lot of hair. Or he could have a scarred area in his gut or something else going on. You can try preventing episodes by giving daily Laxatone hairball remedy (maple or malt flavor). If that doesn’t work some rabbits do well on a chronic intestinal stimulant given every day as a preventative (Reglan). Or giving him an injection of fluids under the skin once a week may help. 

 I recommend the following emergency protocol to follow, that you can start at home at the first signs of a decrease in appetite:

1. Check temperature using rectal thermometer. Normal temp in rabbits is 100-103*F. If the rabbit is below 100*F you need to warm the rabbit. Place the rabbit on a towel on a heating pad set on low, and lace another towel over them. Recheck the rectal temp every 10 minutes while on the heat pad. Rabbits can quickly become overheated.  You can buy a thermometer at a pharmacy. Get a digital one with a long flexible tip. For lubrication use vaseline or KY jelly. You can purchase a heating pad at a pharmacy as well. 
2. Administer an injection of warm fluids under the skin. 
3. Administer a pain reliever like Meloxicam/Metacam. 
4. Do not syringe feed the rabbit if the temp is below 100*F, or if the belly feels enlarged or firm. If you do syringe feed, do not feed more than 10ml every 3 hrs. 
5. If the rabbit does not improve within 2-3 hours they need to see a vet right away. 

 You can ask your veterinarian to prescribe SQ fluids and teach you how to administer them at home. And they can also supply you with some pain meds to have on hand for when he has his next episode. Your veterinarian can teach you how to take your rabbit’s rectal temp. Or you can look for videos online.  

Is it possible for a bun to get bloated just from excessive grooming or not drinking enough water?

Yes bunnies often get bloated from excessive hair ingestion. A small chunk of hair exits the stomach and enters the small intestine, getting stuck. This causes the stomach to fill up with gas and fluid. The rest of the rabbit’s body becomes dehydrated, and their blood pressure drops, as well as their body temperature. The most important treatments for bloat are hydration into the veins or under the skin, pain meds, and keeping their temp up in the normal range. In many cases fluids under the skin and oral pain meds may help if given at the first signs of illness. If the rabbit does not improve within a couple hours then it needs to be hospitalized on IV fluids with a rabbit experienced vet. If the rabbit’s stomach is very enlarged then the vet will have to sedate the rabbit and pass a tube down its throat into its stomach to empty out the gas and fluid. With IV fluid treatment the blockage will usually pass. If it doesn’t pass within several hours then the rabbit may need emergency surgery to remove the blockage. 

 Some rabbits don’t drink much water, because they are getting enough water when they eat their greens. If a rabbit was left without water or greens, they could become dehydrated and sick. Dehydration could lead to a bloat. But the most common thing is that the rabbit swallows too much hair and then they become dehydrated. The myth is that it’s a large hairball in the stomach. That is false. The hairballs that cause blockages and bloat are small and get stuck in the small intestine.  

What signs can we look for to tell the difference between stasis and bloat?

 It can be difficult to tell the difference between bloat and stasis unless you get x-rays done. Some vets are unable to identify a mild bloat on x-rays. But a major bloat is obvious on x-rays, and often obvious when the vet palpates the rabbit’s belly. Bloated rabbits almost always have a decreased temperature. GI stasis rabbits are more likely to have a normal temperature. In both bloat and stasis there is often no appetite, and no stool production. They may act painful, or may just be sitting quietly. 

What causes bloat?

A small chunk of hair exits the stomach and enters the small intestine, getting stuck. This causes the stomach to fill up with gas and fluid. The rest of the rabbit’s body becomes dehydrated, and their blood pressure drops, as well as their body temperature. 

 Rabbits can also develop bloat if there is a constriction of the intestines. This can happen in recently spayed female rabbits. They can form adhesions from the surgery (fibrous bands of scar tissue that form between internal organs and tissues, joining them together abnormally). 

How serious is bloat in rabbits? 

Bloat in rabbits is life threatening. If your rabbit doesn’t eat its meal right away, and doesn’t take any treats, be very concerned. For a dog or cat you might wait a day or two to take them to the vet. For rabbits you should not wait more than a couple hours. Their lack of appetite may be just GI stasis, and they just need some SQ fluids, pain meds, intestinal meds, and syringe feeding. Or they could have a life-threatening bloat. Bloated rabbits go into shock and can die. Or their stomach can rupture. Getting rabbits treated right away is very important. The earlier the bloat is treated, the better the prognosis. 

 If your rabbit is not eating, it needs to see a rabbit experienced vet right away. A good rabbit vet will recommend an x-ray, all rabbits that stop eating should absolutely have x-rays done. Bloodwork is very important as well. This tells us how sick your rabbit is, and if there is something else going on, like a twisted liver lobe. 

 Treating a bloated rabbit can be expensive. I recommend being prepared by having pet insurance and a savings account. If your rabbit gets sick it could easily cost $500-5,000. 

What are the early signs of bloat?

Rabbits can be fine, eat dinner as normal, then be lethargic, hunched and not eating treats 1-2 hours later. Often there are no early signs, it is very sudden in onset. You can try and prevent bloat by giving Laxatone hairball remedy every day when shedding and groom them daily when shedding.  

Are certain breeds of rabbits more prone to bloat? 

Bloat occurs in all breeds and sizes. Most common in healthy middle-aged rabbits (3-6 yrs). But can happen at any age. If a geriatric rabbit bloats, there is often an underlying cause, like kidney insufficiency. 

Are rabbits with megacolon more prone to bloat?

Megacolon rabbits are prone to a different kind of bloat, involving the large intestine instead of the stomach. Sometimes they just get a lot of gas in their cecum. That is not truly a bloat, because it is not a blockage, and is instead just excessive gas buildup. 

Many megacolon rabbits have irregular sized poop, that may be fused together or oval in shape, and may get quite large. Because Megacolon rabbits have motility issues and enlarged poops, these poops can get stuck in the colon. This then causes a large intestinal bloat. Hydration, pain meds, enemas and other meds can help but if the blockage is severe the rabbit may not survive. If the rabbit has a large intestinal obstruction and is not improving with medical treatment then they may need surgery. This type of surgery is very challenging. 

What causes recurring bloat episodes in a rabbit?

Could be chronic hair ingestion, intestinal parasites, scar tissue, adhesions, kidney insufficiency, or other issue. 

If I think my rabbit is bloated, is there anything I can do to treat at home in case I can’t get to a vet right away?

I recommend the following protocol to follow, that you can start at home at the first signs of a decrease in appetite:

1. Check temperature using rectal thermometer. Normal temp in rabbits is 100-103*F. If the rabbit is below 100*F you need to warm the rabbit. Place the rabbit on a towel on a heating pad set on low. Recheck the rectal temp every 10 minutes while on the heat pad. Rabbits can quickly become overheated.  You can buy a thermometer at a pharmacy. Get a digital one with a long flexible tip. For lubrication use vaseline or KY jelly. You can also purchase a heating pad at a pharmacy as well. 
2. Administer a dose of warm fluids under the skin. 
3. Administer a pain reliever like Meloxicam. 
4. Do not syringe feed the rabbit if the temp is below 100*F, or if the belly feels enlarged or firm. If you do syringe feed, do not feed more than 10ml every 3 hrs. 
5. If the rabbit does not improve within 3 hours they need to see a vet right away. 

 You can ask your veterinarian to prescribe SQ fluids and teach you how to administer them at home. And they can also supply you with some pain meds to have on hand.  

How soon after noticing symptoms of bloat should I get my rabbit to a vet? 

Within 2 hours. 

How is bloat treated at the vet? Will my rabbit need to be hospitalized? 

A good rabbit vet will perform x-rays and bloodwork right away. After bloat is diagnosed the rabbit should be hospitalized and started right away on IV fluids, injectable pain meds and heat support. They may need a tube briefly placed down their throat to relieve the excessive gas and fluid in the stomach. The rabbit should be monitored closely and have repeat x-rays performed every couple hours to see if the GI tract starts moving. Once the GI tract is moving and the small hairball passes from the small intestine into the large intestine, the rabbit is usually out of the woods. If the GI tract doesn’t start moving within 4-6 hrs, or the rabbit gets worse then they need surgery to remove the obstruction. The longer you wait, the worse the rabbit will get.  

How well do rabbits typically recover from bloat? What kind of home care should I be prepared to give once my rabbit comes home from the vet after a bloat episode?

Rabbits usually recover pretty well, if the bloat is treated quickly and properly. Often they will need to continue pain meds, intestinal stimulants, extra hydration, and syringe feeding for 2-5 days afterwards. 

What kind of food should I avoid feeding my rabbit so he/she does not become bloated?

Avoid carbohydrates, large amount of fruits or sugary foods. Keep the pellets and greens limited so the rabbit eats a lot of hay. Rabbits are always grooming and are always ingesting hair. Hay will help keep the intestines moving properly and keep the hair moving through. Exercise also helps the gut move properly. 

Other than a correct diet, what else can I do to minimize the possibility of my rabbit becoming bloated?

You can try and prevent bloat by giving Laxatone hairball remedy every day when shedding and groom them daily when your rabbit is shedding.  

I have a 2-year-old, female lop. She has choked on her pellets on two different occasions, causing me to give her the bunny Heimlich maneuver—-traumatizing!! Now I feed her one pellet at a time or none at all, only hay. Is this something she will grow out of with age (eating too fast) or might there be another reason she chokes easily?

This could be due to eating too fast or could be from dental discomfort. Another possibility could be something constricting her esophagus, like a tumor. But this is more likely to occur in a middle aged or older rabbit, like over 5 yrs old.  Avoiding pellets is a good idea. It would be ideal to get x-rays of her head, throat and chest, but she may need a CT scan or fluoroscopy to see if there is anything interfering with her swallowing. Also, when rabbits have a choking episode there is a high chance of them getting food in their lungs and getting an aspiration pneumonia. X-rays are necessary for diagnosis, and the treatment would be antibiotics. 

I wanted to ask Dr. Kanfer how I could encourage my rabbit to drink more water? She has 2 water bowls, a stainless-steel fountain and a waterer with a floating disk to prevent her dewlap from getting wet. She will only drink water with some apple juice or blended veggies. She won’t drink enough water on her own.

Many rabbits do not drink a lot of water. If a rabbit is being fed a big salad, they will get their water from that, and will drink less water. Rabbits that don’t get any greens and eat primarily hay and pellets tend to drink more water. If your rabbit is otherwise healthy and the poops look normal then it is probably getting sufficient water and I wouldn’t worry about it. If your rabbit has GI stasis episodes or bladder sludge then they may benefit from fluid injections under the skin.  

I have a question about pellets… I notice a lot of people recommending a brand of pellets that has a lot of soy in it. What do you think about bunnies eating soy?

Soy is a source of protein. Soy and corn are foods that are GMO (genetically modified organism). Certain foods are GMO to try and increase the crop yield and help the plants resist the effects of the herbicide being used.  There is information in the literature that GMO’s can cause a higher number of allergic reactions and fertility issues in humans. But there is also evidence that animals do fine on a diet containing GMO. 

A proper rabbit diet should be limited amounts of pellets and greens with a large amount of hay. Since the pellets are a small part of the diet, I am not as worried about which pellet brand is used. I do recommend the higher quality brands, but as long as the rabbits are eating a timothy-based pellet without seeds and puffs added, that is the most important thing. Also, the food the rabbit eats is mostly digested by the good bacteria in their cecum, and the bacteria produces the nutrients the rabbit absorbs. Personally, if a rabbit is healthy, I don’t worry about pellets that contain soy. If the rabbit has GI issues, then it may be better to try a non-GMO pellet. 

My vet says that domesticated bunnies do not need pellets, they basically just need hay and some greens, and I can use pellets as a treat. Do you think bunnies can get all the nutrition they need from hay and greens? If pellets are necessary, what percentage of their diet should be pellets?

In the wild rabbits eat grass, dried grass, leaves and branches. Pellets were initially created for rabbits used for meat and in the labs, to allow for complete nutrition of all the required vitamins and minerals, and to promote fast growth. A house rabbit can definitely live on a diet of hay only, without pellets or greens. We feed pellets and greens to make sure the rabbit has all the micronutrients they need, and for variety. Some hays may be grown on fields that are lacking nutrients, but good quality hay providers will make sure that their hay is healthy and not nutrient deficient. Pellets and greens should be fed in limited amounts. Rabbits 5lbs and under should get no more than 1/8-1/4cup of pellets and 1 cup of green leafy vegetables per day. They should be eating primarily hay. This will keep their teeth worn down and keep their gut moving normally. 

I have a few questions on CBD for rabbits, what has been your experience with any CBD products, have you done any studies or recommend a brand? Also how do you think CBD would benefit a rabbit after either a surgery or an elderly rabbit? Have you tried CBD for any of your patients yet and what was their outcome?

CBD can be helpful to relieve pain after surgery or due to arthritis. I am attaching my CBD handout below to answer your questions. I have used it in my bunnies and find some products work better than others. 

Click here to read Dr. Kanfer’s CBD handout

How often should you groom different breeds of rabbits? How do I know if I’ve groomed my rabbit enough?

Some rabbits shed frequently, some only shed 2-4 times a year. In short haired rabbits, if the fur is coming off when you are petting their back, then they need to be groomed. If your rabbit has patches of bare skin then you are grooming too much. You can use the Hair Buster rabbit comb or use your hands to pull off the loose hair.  Long hair rabbits may need to be combed daily or weekly. Sometimes it is difficult to keep up with grooming long haired rabbits, and you can have them shaved by your rabbit vet or rabbit rescue groomer every 1-3 months. If you see hair in your rabbit’s poop then they need to be groomed more frequently. I also recommend using a kitty hairball formula like Laxatone (malt flavor) daily whenever a rabbit is shedding. 

If I don’t have styptic powder at home and accidentally trim my bunny’s nails too short, what else can I use to stop the bleeding?

You can use flour or press the nail into a bar of soap. Or hold pressure with a tissue for a few minutes. 

What is the best flooring to have in a rabbit’s area to prevent sore hocks? How can I care for my existing sore hocks?

All rabbits should be kept on carpet. This provides them with secure footing so they are comfortable and will be as active as they want to be. Many rabbits have thinner hair at the tip of their ankle and the skin looks pink. This is not sore hocks. But should be monitored to make sure it doesn’t get worse. Signs of sore hocks: scabbing and/or swelling, excessive hair loss on the bottom of the rear feet, painful feet. Rabbits can be given soft beds to relax on if the feet are just pink. If the feet are getting worse or are scabbed and swollen, the rabbit can be kept on a large piece of faux sheepskin. You can buy it on Amazon, called Sheepette. You can also use children’s socks or bunny booties. There is someone on Etsy that makes bunny booties. If the rabbit has significant sore hocks, then they may need to be managed by a rabbit veterinarian, and will need antibiotics, pain relievers, may need foot soaking and ointments, and intensive care.

What kind of greens are best to feed a rabbit who has urine sludge?

Rabbits with bladder sludge should avoid parsley, kale, spinach, broccoli, collard greens, and should avoid alfalfa. Many rabbits with sludge are overweight and will improve significantly if they lose weight. 

How often should rabbits be fed fruit (strawberry, banana, watermelon, blueberry, etc.)?

Fruits are treats and should be fed sparingly. I recommend one small treat per day. So 1-2 blueberries OR a quarter sized piece of banana OR a small piece of strawberry OR a half a baby carrot OR a bunny cookie. Too much fruit can cause soft stool and obesity. 

Should rabbits really stay away from carrots?

Yes, carrots act like carbohydrates. Think of them as equivalent to a piece of bread or fruit. Should be used as treats only.  

What is the minimum amount of space a rabbit should have (not counting “play time” space)?

Most places recommend a minimum of 10-15 square feet per 1-2 rabbits, plus an exercise area of 24sf or larger. An 8 panel exercise pen is a good size for 1-2 rabbits. Then they should have a few hours each day to run around outside the pen. 

Is cleaning a rabbit’s scent glands necessary? How often should it be done?

Most rabbits will clean their own scent glands. If a rabbit is arthritic or overweight then they probably need to be cleaned. They probably only need to be cleaned once every few months. 

How much salad should I be feeding my rabbit?

1 cup of salad per bunny per day

What are the most nutritious greens I should be feeding my rabbit?

Overall greens are mostly water. But contain micronutrients. Good greens to feed rabbits: green leaf lettuce, romaine, dandelion, carrot tops, cilantro, parsley, kale, baby bok choy. You can find detailed lists on the rescue group websites. 

What greens are not good for rabbits?

Avoid broccoli, spinach, iceberg lettuce, celery. Feed in limited amounts: kale, parsley. 

My rabbit came from a place where he didn’t have hay available, and now he won’t eat it. How can I get him to eat hay?

He may be getting too many pellets and greens. Or he may have bad teeth. He needs to have his teeth examined by a rabbit experienced vet. If his teeth are normal and he is not skinny, then you may want to try decreasing his pellets and greens. Rabbits should get 1/8-1/4cup pellets and 1 cup of greens each day. Feed a plain green pellet, no puffs or seeds added. Offer a high quality fresh hay that you can get from a rescue group or a feed store. Ideally offer Timothy, Orchard or Oat hay. Offer fresh handfuls every day. SLOWLY decrease pellets and greens by 25% every 2 weeks til you get down to the recommended amount. If your rabbit still won’t eat hay, you can try adding in alfalfa hay to entice him to eat. If he has bad teeth then he may never eat hay, and that is ok. 

It seems that the pellets for older buns, Science Selective and Oxbow’s new 5+ pellets have alfalfa in them. I have an 11 year old bun who has been on Science Selective for years and have had no problems. Should I change?

Alfalfa is higher in calcium and protein. Alfalfa based pellets and alfalfa hay is very helpful for babies and older bunnies. Babies need calcium and protein for growth. Many older bunnies start losing weight and need more nutrient dense food. Alfalfa hay or pellets can also be used to tempt rabbits to eat and help them gain weight. It should be avoided in rabbits that have bladder or kidney stones or bladder sludge. Healthy adult rabbits do not need all that extra calcium and protein, and if they eat it regularly could potentially cause problems. If your 11yr old bunny doesn’t have any issues with stones or sludge then he can remain on the alfalfa based pellets. Your bunny would need X-rays to check for stones or sludge. 

1. Do you think it’s important for bunny owners who live in areas that don’t have wild bunnies and are not in an area where there has been the virus to get vaccinated anyways? If so, I’d like to be able to convey these reasons to local bunny owners and give assurance to myself that I’m not unnecessarily vaccinating my own bun.

This virus has spread quickly through the wild rabbits of the western US, and it is now moving eastward. Eventually it will be everywhere throughout the US, Canada and Mexico. The virus has been present in most countries for many years and they have been vaccinating rabbits against it for a long time. This is not going away and eventually all rabbits in the US will need to be vaccinated. We have been vaccinating dogs and cats for years against viruses like Distemper and Parvovirus. It’s a similar situation. 

2. Is it okay for a fully RHDV2 vaccinated rabbit to go outdoors to romp for exercise (under supervision) in an endemic area? non-endemic area?

The vaccine is extremely effective at protecting rabbits against the virus. Yes, vaccinated rabbits can go outdoors to play in endemic and non-endemic areas. 

3. Do you recommend one or two shots of Medgene vaccine for previously vaccinated rabbits with Filavac / Eravac? Can you explain why some veterinarians are giving differing advice about this?

The Medgene vaccine is a new vaccine and it is a different type of vaccine than the Eravac and Filavac. They don’t know yet whether the Medgene will be as effective as a single injection a year after a rabbit gets Eravac or Filavac. Medgene is currently researching that. Their recommendation is for veterinarians to use their judgment. If it’s an indoor rabbit and the risk is low in that area, then boostering with a single Medgene dose should be fine. If it’s a rabbit that goes outdoors, or lives in an area with numerous cases or lots of cottontails, then best to give the 2 vaccine series of the Medgene when switching over. 

4. Many of the recent RHDV2 confirmations (Seattle, Ontario 2x, Kansas, Orange County, FL) have been in indoor-only rabbits. How might you explain this, when one would think outdoor rabbits would be more exposed to the disease? Should those living in RHDV2 endemic areas take any additional special precautions compared to those who live in non-endemic RHDV2 areas?

Outdoor rabbits are definitely much more likely to be infected than indoor rabbits. But a large percentage of pet rabbits in the US are kept primarily indoors. Maybe we are seeing higher numbers of indoor rabbits being reported if the outdoor pet rabbits are not getting tested when they die. 

If your rabbit is not getting vaccinated yearly then you should definitely take all precautions: take your shoes off before entering house, keep fleas, mosquitoes and flies out, avoid associating with other rabbits and especially avoid wild rabbits. The problem is that you cannot prevent the virus from entering your home on greens or on cat/dog feet. 

5. What do you think is the real risk of RHDV2 being transmitted to rabbits via greens/veggies and via hay?

I think it is a real risk, and along with insects or tracking the virus in on our feet, these are probably the main causes for indoor only rabbits getting infected. Vaccination will protect rabbits from the virus if it is present on hay or greens. 

6. Do you think RHDV2 vaccination should become mandatory in the US once the domestic Medgene vaccine is fully FDA-licensed (proven safe and efficacious)? 

It won’t become mandatory. The only vaccine that is currently required by law for dogs and cats is the Rabies vaccine. This is because the disease is deadly to humans. The other vaccines that dogs and cats get are administered regularly by all veterinarians because the diseases they prevent can be deadly to dogs and cats. But I do believe that all rabbits should get vaccinated.  

7. Are there any instances where you would NOT recommend vaccination for RHDV2 for a rabbit, indoor or outdoor?

If a rabbit is actively ill, then it is best to wait until it has recovered. If a rabbit has significant kidney disease or advanced cancer then we may not want to vaccinate it. If a rabbit has heart disease that is well controlled on medications, or has a chronic upper respiratory infection, they can be vaccinated. 

8. Are there any cleaning solutions other than Rescue that I can use to clean my home and rabbit’s area to protect against the virus?

1:10 dilution of household bleach or potassium peroxymonosulfate (1% Virkon-S by DuPont).

9. Why does the price of the vaccine vary from vet to vet? Is it necessary for my vet to perform a wellness exam or can I just ask for the vaccine to save money?

Reasons for price differences: 

Cost for the vet to acquire the vaccine. Exporting the Filavac and Eravac has been expensive. 

Area the vet is located. Costs are higher in cities than in suburban or rural areas. 

Quality of the veterinarian. Higher quality and more knowledgeable vets are often going to charge more than someone who sees only a couple rabbits a week. And these vets are going to be better at finding diseases in the early stages. 

A wellness exam is strongly recommended at least once a year, then twice a year in older rabbits (9yrs and older). The wellness exams allow the vet to find problems that the owner may be unaware of like dental disease, obesity, heart disease, cancer, etc. Also, we don’t want to vaccinate a sick rabbit. Rabbits are really good at hiding illnesses. As veterinarians we are required to perform annual exams in order to treat or prescribe. For young healthy rabbits that have had a normal exam within the past year, it is fine for them to receive the vaccine without getting another exam. For geriatric rabbits it is ideal to check bloodwork and x-rays to make sure they don’t have any illnesses before vaccinating. Vaccines make the immune system work, and if a rabbit is fighting something off, then anything that can affect the immune system can hasten an underlying illness. 

10. Should rescues be responsible for vaccinating their rabbits before being adopted and in foster homes? Should personal rabbits living with foster rabbits be vaccinated also?

Yes, they should be vaccinating all rabbits that come through their rescue. All rabbits that may be exposed to another rabbit should be vaccinated. All rabbits should be vaccinated. 

11. What do you have to say to people who are against vaccinating their rabbits?

For some people it is a financial issue. There are rescue groups and shelters that may be able to offer discounted vaccinations. Or they can call around to different vets and may have to drive a bit farther to get a less expensive vaccination. 

In some cases the rabbits have a chronic illness, and we are afraid that a vaccine would be too much for them. 

Some people may fear if the vaccine is safe enough. The vaccine is very safe and side effects have been minimal. The vaccine is not going to cause the disease, there is no live virus. 

Other people may not think their rabbit is at risk being indoors only. This is false. RHDV2 is insidious. It only takes a few virus particles to cause infection. It is frequently fatal and strikes quickly. It is very hardy and can survive for 3-4 months in the environment. You cannot wash off the virus, it requires special disinfectants. It will survive being in the washing machine, will survive heat and freezing. The virus is being spread by wild rabbits. Anything that a wild rabbit touches can have virus particles. If your dog or cat walks where a wild rabbit was, they can track the virus into your home. If the greens you feed are exposed to an infected rabbit, then that will bring the virus into your home. You can remove your shoes and keep insects out but you cannot disinfect dog/cat feet, or greens.  The only way to fully protect your indoor house rabbit is by vaccination. 

There are some people that don’t care as much as others about their rabbit’s health and safety. 

12. I would like to know if any of the state vets or DOA’s have any plans to conference together, especially in states with pop-up cases of indoor bunny RHDV2, in order to try to identify any commonalities among the cases?  I “do” RHDV pretty much full time; I know that is a question many people, including myself and my team, would like answered.  Not exactly what you’re looking for here with these questions, but we’re all scrambling to figure out how this virus is getting into peoples’ homes where reasonable biosecurity is being maintained.

As discussed above, the virus is very hardy. We may never know how indoor only rabbits are getting infected. There is no RHDV2 conference that I know of. There is an Exotics Conference in August, I’m sure the topic will come up. 

13. What is the current standard of thinking for incubation period after exposure till symptoms occur (getting several answers when I research)?

Three to 9 days according to APHIS.  

14. What is the approximate range window between first symptoms and death?

Death occurs between 1-3 days. There may be no signs and the rabbit may be found dead. 

15. When buns are housed in group settings (such as in the rescue), or even in homes in bonded pairs, if symptoms occur, does it do any good to separate buns at that point, or, since exposure has already occurred, is there any benefit?

Most likely the bonded rabbit has been exposed as well. This is a tough question; do you separate the bunnies at the time when they need emotional support and one or both die alone? Or do you separate them in the hope that one will survive.